Unique Foods of Ohio
1/14/2010 | Douglas Trattner
Chicago has its deep-dish pizza. Philly's got its cheesesteaks. And Boston claims rights to the almighty lobster roll. So what does that leave the rest of us? Plenty, actually.
Every region in America is home to at least some unique foods. The singular combination of people, geography, climate and culture all but guarantees that each and every hometown will boast a hometown favorite. Even in this day of national chain restaurants, idiosyncratic local specialties endure thanks to the cooks who make them and the customers who demand them.
Given its lengthy history and melting-pot citizenry, it's no surprise that Ohio is stuffed to the gills with distinctive edibles.
Polish Boy
No
t to be confused with the 'po’ boy' of the Deep South, Northeast Ohio's infamous Polish boy is a sandwich uniquely suited to its setting. Waves of Eastern European immigrants have indelibly and deliciously left their mark on the local cuisine. The Polish boy is what happens when you combine that legacy with inebriation and cold weather. Ideal for the bone-chilling winters that envelop the region, this hearty hoagie warms a body from the inside out by combining in one bun all that is blessed.
At its heart is a grilled then fried kielbasa, or Polish smoked sausage, that is tucked into a small sub bun. The meat is topped with a handful of french fries, which themselves are crowned with a layer of coleslaw. Warm barbecue sauce is ladled over the whole sinful affair. As one can imagine, eating these beasts requires appetite, ambition, and more often than not, a knife and fork.
Two to try: Seti's Polish Boys (Food truck at 3500 Woodland Ave., Cleveland, 216-240-0745) and Hot Sauce Williams (7815 Carnegie Ave., Cleveland, 216-391-2230, www.hotsaucewilliams.net).
Barberton-style Fried Chicken
Given that the South is widely praised for its soulful fried chicken, it might surprise some to learn that Barberton, Ohio, is billed as the (unofficial) Fried Chicken Capital of America. Located just west of Akron, this tiny hamlet goes nuts for fried chicken, sporting a handful of bustling 'chicken houses.' But Barberton-style chicken isn't just good; it's unique to the area. Fresh Amish-reared chicken is hacked, dipped in egg, coated in breading, and fried in 100-percent lard. The result is impossibly juicy meat beneath a crisp, shellac-like crust.
Sold at no-frills cafeteria-style joints, Barberton-style chicken dinners typically include a wing, breast, thigh, and back, which is euphemistically referred to as 'chicken ribs.' The practice is a cost-cutting holdover from the Depression days. Equally peculiar is the accompanying bowl of 'hot sauce' that sides each platter. This mild stew of tomatoes, peppers and rice can be enjoyed on it own, or used as s dipping sauce for the bird.
Two to try: Belgrade Gardens (401 E. State St., Barberton, 330-745-0113) and Milich's Village Inn (4444 Cleveland Massillon Rd., Barberton, 330-825-4553).
Cincinnati Chili
Cincinnati-style chili isn't just a variation on a theme; it is whole new way of looking at the dish. Created by a Macedonian immigrant almost 90 years ago, the distinctive delicacy has become the city's most emblematic culinary item. Dubbed Chilitown USA, Cincy boasts chili heads, chili fests, and more chili parlors per capita than even Texas. Saying that Cincinnatians are fond of chili is an insult. They are obsessed with it.
And how could they not be? Here, the thin, meaty sauce is ladled over spaghetti noodles and capped with a mountain of golden shredded cheese. Order a 'four-way' and the chili will be dotted with chopped onions. If you like beans in your chili, ask for the 'five-way.' Customers tailor their platters by adding hot sauce and oyster crackers, which soak up the meaty gravy. Newbies, here's a tip: Don't twirl the pasta onto your fork. Instead, eat the dish from front to back with a knife and fork. That way, every bite has the perfect mix of ingredients.
Two to try: Gold Star Chili and Skyline Chili, both with multiple locations throughout Cincinnati.
Sauerkraut Balls
Akron's official food is the humble sauerkraut ball. As far as food claims go, it's a pretty comical moniker, you have to admit. But as far as food tastes go, the kraut ball is the bomb. The ultimate fried bar snacks, these golf ball-size orbs contain chopped sauerkraut, minced meat and various spices. The combination of kraut, meat and breading mimics the flavor profile of a Reuben sandwich. Recipes vary from place to place, sometimes including ham, Swiss or onion. Dipping sauces -- because everything fried requires a creamy-cool counterpunch -- run the gamut from zesty horseradish to 1000 Island.
Thanks to frozen food companies, sauerkraut balls are enjoying a slightly wider range of fans. But by and large, the phenomenon remains a uniquely Ohio tradition. Devoured by the basket at bars and restaurants statewide, the humble sauerkraut ball is anything but.
Two to try: Nick Anthe's (1008 N. Main St., Akron, 330-929-6425) and Waterloo Restaurant (423 E Waterloo Rd., Akron, 330-773-5158, www.waterloorestaurant.com).
Buckeyes
Ohio is Buckeye Nation. Our official state tree is the buckeye. Our collegiate sports teams go by the name Buckeyes. We sing the 'Buckeye Battle Cry.' And we consume hundreds of thousands of pounds of buckeyes each and every year. No, we aren't talking about the semi-toxic nut from the Ohio buckeye tree. We are referring to the sweet and delicious confection of the same name.
Like the nut after which the treat takes its name, the buckeye resembles a buck's eye -- spherical with a pupil-like circle in the middle. The core consists of sweetened peanut butter, which is dipped almost all the way into milk chocolate. Tan and brown, the bicolor balls taste like a gourmet version of Reese's peanut butter cups. But why stop there? Locals have adapted the classic recipe to cupcakes, cheesecake, and even deep-frying the confection so that it's crunchy on the outside and melty in the middle.
Two to try: Peanut Shoppe (46 N. High St., Columbus, 614-221-8837) and Bakery Gingham (189 Thurman Ave., Columbus, 614-449-2253, www.bakerygingham.com).
Ice Wines
There are only a handful of regions in the world where high-quality ice wine can be produced. Made from grapes that have been left on the vine to freeze, this unique beverage requires a climate both hot enough to ripen the fruit and cold enough to freeze it solid. Located down wind from Lake Erie, Madison, in the Northeast corner of the state, is one of those places. During summer, the lake amasses heat, which moderates temps and extends the growing season well into fall. Come winter -- well, this is Ohio, so it gets mighty cold, mighty fast.
Once the grapes freeze, they are immediately picked by hand and pressed. Because much of the water has been eliminated, the resulting juice is highly concentrated, creating a finished product that is high in sugar and high in acid. It is also high in price thanks to the painstaking process and remarkably low yield. But fans of this honey-hued dessert wine are more than happy to shell out a few extra bucks for something extraordinary.
Two to try: Debonne Vineyards (7743 Doty Rd., Madison, 440-466-3485, www.debonne.com) and Ferrante Winery (5585 State Rt. 307, Geneva, 440-466-8466, www.ferrantewinery.com).
Goetta
Outside of Cincinnati's borders, goetta (pronounced
get-uh) is practically unknown. But locals throughout Southwest Ohio consume literally millions of pounds of the stuff per year. There is even an annual Goettafest. Found in butcher shops and on restaurant menus citywide, the breakfast meat is Cincy's other culinary oddity.
Introduced by German immigrants, the Scrapple-like substance is made by simmering various pork (and sometimes beef) parts with steel-cut oats, onions and spices. The resulting porridge is formed into loaves and cooled. Goetta is most often consumed at breakfast restaurants, where it is sliced, fried up crisp, and served in place of bacon or sausage.
Two to try: Tucker's Restaurant 1637 Vine St., Cincinnati, 513-721-7123) and Eckerlin Meats in Findlay Market (1801 Race St., Cincinnati, 513-721-5743, www.eckerlinmeats.com).