48 Hours in the Heights
6/15/2009 | Tori Woods
Since the early 20th century, Clevelanders have escaped the hustle and bustle of downtown by setting up house in the leafy East Side communities of Cleveland Heights and Shaker Heights. Known collectively as the Heights, these distinctive neighborhoods continue to attract new residents thanks to stately old homes, walkable Main Streets, and a veritable smorgasbord of entertaining diversions. See for yourself over the course one glorious weekend in the Heights.
Friday Evening
Shaker Square has the dubious distinction of being one of the nation’s first outdoor shopping malls. Today, the architecturally significant complex has developed into a lively destination place, with restaurants, theaters and galleries attracting strong and steady crowds. On warm summer nights, the sidewalk patios overflow with diners taking it all in.
Start your weekend in the Heights at one of its sharpest wine bars,
Grotto Wine Bar. Brick archways and soaring ceilings add a dash of Old World charm to this attractive new hotspot. Sure, there’s an amazing selection of wines by the glass and bottle. But the Italian small plates are proving equally popular. Of particular note are the airy meatballs, shrimp-stuffed rice balls, and the wine-friendly charcuterie plates. Don’t fill up before the main event, though. At nearby
Sasa, Cleveland’s only
izakaya, adventurous guests must divide their attention between the sake, sushi and Japanese small plates. In addition to stocking the city’s largest sake selection, this contemporary eatery dishes up delicacies like five-spice lamb ribs, miso-marinated black cod, and whole grilled mackerel.
One of the finest spots in all of Cleveland in which to enjoy a nightcap also happens to be in the Heights. Located at the top of Cedar Hill,
Nighttown has been the town’s premier jazz and supper club since 1965. Near-nightly live entertainment draws crowds from throughout the region, who sit within spittin’ distance to the best jazz and world music musicians on the circuit. Music or not, this great neighborhood spot is worth a visit if only to enjoy cocktails at the outdoor bar.
Saturday Morning
There’s no shortage of indie coffeehouses in the Heights, most of which cater to young professionals and sleep-deprived new parents. One of the best is
Dewey’s Coffee Café, where the locally roasted fair-trade java is served up alongside the energy of Shaker Square. Hop on the free Wi-Fi to catch up with the world, or blissfully zone out on the prime people-watching patio. On Saturday mornings from April through October, the main thoroughfares that dissect the square are transformed into a bustling bazaar. The
North Union Farmers Market, the city’s biggest and best, attracts home cooks, professional chefs and the just-plain curious with its bounty of 100-percent locally produced goods. Load up your totes with artesian cheeses, fresh-baked breads and pastries, Amish-grown fruits and veggies, and farm-raised meat and seafood.
Saturday Afternoon
If the weather and your feet are cooperating, consider making the short drive to the nearby
Shaker Lakes Nature Center, where a tangle of hiking trails wends through a lush 200-acre nature preserve. Almost paved over in the 1960s for a freeway, the sanctuary is a birder’s dream, with streams, lakes, marshes and forests brimming with winged wildlife.
When Mother Nature says “no way,” take shelter from the storm at an indulgent matinee. Located at the intersection of Cedar and Lee roads, the
Cedar Lee Theatre screens the best in independent and foreign film, but also well-received Hollywood fare. After the flick, stroll down the block to the small but mighty
Heights Arts Gallery. This community-run gallery presents several exhibits throughout the year, many of which showcase the best in homegrown talent.
Saturday Evening
Lopez Southwestern Food Club is not your typical chips-and-salsa Mexican joint. This lively neighborhood eatery, originally helmed by celeb chef Rick Bayless, features contemporary takes on Southwest and South-of-the-Border fare. Enchiladas are stuffed with lobster and chipotle cream; tacos are filled with shredded duck; and chicken is marinated in mescal and served with spicy corn pudding. This place gets packed between 5 and 9 p.m. on Tuesdays and Thursdays, when its grin-inducing margaritas are discounted by half.
If your meal doesn’t leave you longing for a siesta, head down to
Jillian’s Billiards Club, near the intersection of Cedar and Fairmount. This spacious pool hall – one of the largest in town – offers dozens of pool tables, interactive games and flat-screen TVs. The vibe is classic pool hall, with brass railings, plush carpeting and full-size tables. Leather sofas are sprinkled around for between rack breaks, and a menu of casual grub should satisfy all but the pickiest diners. On sultry summer nights, the sidewalk around the nearby
La Gelateria is a veritable sea of people, each enjoying the refreshing blast of authentic Italian gelato. Try the chocolate paired with pistachio for a taste you won’t soon forget.
Sunday Shopping
Ever since hippies planted their flag firmly on Coventry terra firma back in the 60s, this strip has been home to alternative types. Fortunately for shoppers, that applies to the eclectic collection of indie-owned stores as well.
To furnish an entire dorm for less than $100, hit the incense-filled
City Buddha. This bohemian accessories shop sells vibrant tapestries, Indonesian furniture, and distinctive and exotic imported jewelry. For decades,
Record Revolution has been the go-to spot to build a diverse record collection, patch a rusty car with bumper stickers, and clothe a tour-addled traveler in concert jerseys. Pour through the stacks at this multi-level shop and you too may score a forgotten gem. For the literate set,
Mac’s Backs Books offers three floors of new and used books in every conceivable genre. Specialties include classics, mysteries, sci-fi and non-fiction. Bring in your old books for store credit.
A fitting end to a weekend in the Heights is a visit to
Big Fun. Like the neighborhood it calls home, the shop offers something fun for folks of any demographic, from vintage collectibles to tacky, tasteless novelties. Snap a strip of photos in the old-time photo booth, or load up on gag toys to harass your friends and colleagues. It’s nearly impossible to leave this store empty-handed. Or without a smile.